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What Is Shiso? Red and Green Perilla in Japanese Cooking

Shiso is the aromatic herb on the sashimi plate — the large, jagged-edged leaf that separates the fish from the wasabi. Green shiso has a distinctive anise-mint-basil flavor that no other herb fully reproduces. Red shiso has a more astringent, slightly bitter character used for coloring rather than fresh flavor.

Quick answer

Shiso (perilla frutescens var. crispa) is a Japanese herb in the mint family. Green shiso (ohba) has a distinctive anise-mint-basil flavor used fresh as a sashimi garnish, in tempura, and as a chiffonade in cold noodles. Red shiso (akajiso) is more astringent and is used to color umeboshi plums and as a pickling herb.

IdentityPerilla frutescens var. crispa — Japanese variety of perilla in the mint family
Key distinctionGreen shiso: fresh flavor herb; Red shiso: pickling and coloring herb — different uses
Primary roleSashimi garnish, tempura ingredient, chiffonade topping, umeboshi colorant
Best contextUsed raw (green) or in pickling (red) — flavor deteriorates quickly after cutting

Green shiso: how and when to use it

Green shiso is used fresh and raw. On a sashimi plate, it serves as a flavor separator — the anise note cleanses the palate between bites of different fish and prevents the wasabi from contaminating adjacent pieces. Rolled and sliced into chiffonade (2–3 leaves per serving), it adds a minty-anise note to cold soba or cold tofu. In tempura, whole shiso leaves are battered and fried — the texture becomes lightly crispy, the flavor mellows. Two to three large leaves per serving is standard as a garnish.

  • Sashimi plate: 2 leaves, used as separator and garnish
  • Chiffonade: stack 5–6 leaves, roll tightly, slice thin — use immediately (oxidizes)
  • Tempura: batter one side only, fry at 170°C for 30–45 seconds
  • Cold soba/zaru soba: 3–4 leaves sliced over the top

Red shiso: the umeboshi ingredient

Red shiso has a different flavor — more astringent, slightly bitter, and earthy compared to the fresh anise of green shiso. It is used in umeboshi production to give the plums their characteristic red color (the anthocyanins in red shiso turn red in the acidic plum brine). It is also used in shiso vinegar, purple-tinted tsukemono, and occasionally as a natural food coloring. Do not substitute red shiso for green in fresh applications — the flavor is categorically different.

  • Umeboshi: red shiso added during salting stage to color the plums
  • Yukari: dried red shiso flakes — a common furikake component
  • Shiso vinegar: red shiso infused in rice vinegar — natural pink color
  • Not interchangeable with green shiso for fresh garnish use

Growing shiso and finding it fresh

Shiso is available fresh at Japanese and Korean grocery stores, typically year-round. It is labeled as 'perilla' in Korean grocery stores, and the Korean variety (kkaennip) is a close relative but with a stronger, more pungent flavor. Growing shiso is straightforward — it is prolific in pots or garden beds, preferring warm temperatures. One plant produces more leaves than a typical household needs. The seeds self-sow readily, making it nearly impossible to eliminate once established.

  • Find it: Japanese grocery stores (shiso), Korean grocery stores (perilla/kkaennip)
  • Korean kkaennip: similar but stronger — works as a substitute in most applications
  • Growing: full sun, warm temperatures, regular water — pot size minimum 6 inches
  • Storage: treat like basil — stand in water at room temperature or refrigerate wrapped, 3–5 days

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I substitute basil for shiso?

In emergencies — the anise note overlaps slightly, but shiso has a menthol-mint dimension that basil lacks. Thai basil is closer than Italian basil. The substitution works in tempura and cold noodles but not for sashimi garnish where shiso's specific flavor is part of the dish.

What is the difference between shiso and perilla?

Shiso is the Japanese variety of perilla. 'Perilla' is the genus name (perilla frutescens) that includes Japanese shiso, Korean kkaennip, and other varieties. In practice, 'shiso' refers to the Japanese culinary variety with its distinctive flavor.

Can I use dried shiso instead of fresh?

Only for yukari (dried red shiso) — dried green shiso loses most of its flavor. For fresh garnish applications, there is no dried substitute. Grow or source fresh.

How do I store fresh shiso?

Stand the bunch in a glass of water like herbs, cover loosely, and refrigerate. Lasts 5–7 days this way. Do not wash until using — excess moisture causes wilting. Avoid storing near ethylene-producing fruit (apples, bananas).

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